Oszkar Maurer – Kadarka Krisztus 2022
Serbia, Fruška Gora
Oszkar Maurer, a rebellious maverick with a deep respect for tradition never ceases to surprise us.
A fourth-generation vintner, Maurer champions natural winemaking, allowing the unique terroir of his vineyards, spanning Subotica’s sandy plains and the historic Fruška Gora Mountain, to speak through his wines.
Among his intriguing offerings, the Kadarka Krisztus 2022 from the Krisztus vineyard on Fruška Gora stands out as a compelling example of his “zero compromise” philosophy.
Fruška Gora, a picturesque region nestled in northern Serbia, boasts a viticultural history stretching back millennia. Its diverse soils, a mosaic of clay, limestone, sedimentary stones, and volcanic rock, coupled with the moderating influence of the nearby Danube River, create an exceptional environment for grape growing.
However, Kadarka Krisztus 2022 takes an undoubtedly unconventional path.
Crafted from unpruned, wild vines, this wine embodies Maurer’s belief in liberating the vine to express its natural vitality.
While conventional wisdom dictates that vines be pruned for controlled yields and consistent quality, Maurer asserts that unpruned vines producing significantly less fruit, yield healthier grapes loaded with a unique energy that is directly transferred to the wine.
Adding another layer of intrigue, the 2022 harvest in the Krisztus vineyard was partly affected by noble rot (Botrytis cinerea). Although often associated with sweet wines, noble rot, in the right conditions, can impart a distinctive complexity to dry wines by introducing subtle notes of honey, spice and an earthy undertone.
Maurer, affectionately dubbed the “Keiser of Botrytis” by many, clearly embraces this natural phenomenon, aiming to harness its ethereal flavours in his wines.
The journey of Kadarka Krisztus 2022 culminates in 18 months of aging in old oak barrels. This process enables gentle micro-oxygenation that softens the tannins and acidity while developing complexity without imparting oaky flavours.
Finally, the wine is bottled unfined, unfiltered, and without the addition of sulphur, a tribute to Maurer’s commitment to a pure, minimal-intervention approach. This “hands-off” philosophy in the cellar allows the true essence of the grape and its terroir to shine through.
The resulting wine is a captivating exploration, flashing a vibrant bouquet of red cherry, raspberry and cranberries intertwined with the delicate aromas of roses and violets.
On the palate, bright acidity is balanced by a delicate tannins and a subtle scent of clove and nutmeg derived from barrel aging.
The absence of fining and filtering contributes to a richer texture and a more profound connection to its source.
FOOD PAIRING
Starters:
- Ajvar Dip with Grilled Bread: The smoky, sweet, and slightly spicy roasted red pepper and eggplant dip, a staple in the Balkans, will complement the vibrant red fruit notes of the Kadarka.
- Smoked Trout with Dill & Horseradish Cream: The delicate smokiness of the trout and the fresh, slightly pungent flavours of dill and horseradish will provide a refreshing contrast to the wine’s bright acidity and red fruit character.
- Goat Cheese and Beet Salad: The earthiness of roasted beets and the creamy tanginess of goat cheese, often found in Central European cuisine, will pair beautifully with the Kadarka’s fruity and floral notes.
Main Courses:
- Duck Breast with Raspberry Sauce: The richness of duck breast, a popular dish in both Central Europe and the Balkans, paired with a tart and sweet raspberry sauce, will mirror the wine’s raspberry aromas and complement its acidity.
- Roasted Pork with Sauerkraut: A classic Central European pairing, the savoury roasted pork and the tangy fermented cabbage will provide a delightful contrast to the Kadarka’s fruit-forward profile.
- Light Stew with Root Vegetables and Paprika: A hearty yet not overly heavy stew featuring root vegetables like carrots and potatoes, seasoned with paprika (common in both regions), will harmonize with the wine’s earthy undertones and red fruit flavours.
Cheeses:
- Aged Gouda: While originating from the Netherlands, aged Gouda is enjoyed across Central Europe and its nutty, slightly sweet notes will pair well with the Kadarka’s potential subtle almond hints.
- Manouri: This fresh, mild, and slightly tangy Greek cheese (often considered part of the broader Balkan culinary sphere) offers a refreshing counterpoint to the wine’s fruitiness.
- Camembert: This creamy, earthy cheese, popular in parts of Central Europe, will complement the delicate nature of the Kadarka.
Dessert:
- Plum Cake with Almond Topping: A traditional Central European dessert, the sweetness of plums and the nutty almond flavour will pair nicely with the wine’s fruit and subtle almond notes.
Starters:
- Ajvar Dip with Grilled Bread: The smoky, sweet, and slightly spicy roasted red pepper and eggplant dip, a staple in the Balkans, will complement the vibrant red fruit notes of the Kadarka.
- Creamy Mushroom Pâté with Crusty Bread: Earthy mushrooms, often featured in Central European cuisine, made into a rich pâté with herbs like thyme or dill, will pair beautifully with the Kadarka’s potential earthy undertones.
- Roasted Beet and Walnut Salad with Balsamic Glaze: The earthiness of roasted beets and the slight bitterness of walnuts, common in both regions, combined with a tangy balsamic glaze, will complement the wine’s fruity and floral notes while providing a textural contrast.
Main Courses:
- Hearty Vegetable Goulash with Dumplings: A rich and flavourful stew featuring vegetables like potatoes, carrots, bell peppers, and mushrooms, seasoned with paprika (a signature spice in both cuisines), will harmonize with the Kadarka’s red fruit and subtle spice notes.
- Pan-Fried Halloumi with Braised Red Cabbage and Apples: The salty, slightly firm texture of halloumi cheese, popular in the Balkans, paired with sweet and tangy braised red cabbage and apples (a common Central European side), will offer a delightful contrast to the wine’s fruitiness and acidity.
- Mushroom and Lentil Loaf with a Savory Tomato Sauce: A substantial and flavourful loaf made with earthy mushrooms and lentils, served with a rich tomato sauce seasoned with herbs like marjoram or thyme, will complement the Kadarka’s body and potential earthy notes.
Cheeses:
- Aged Gouda: While originating from the Netherlands, aged Gouda is enjoyed across Central Europe and its nutty, slightly sweet notes will pair well with the Kadarka’s potential subtle almond hints.
- Bryndza: This salty, slightly tangy sheep cheese is a staple in Slovakia and parts of Poland and would offer a sharp and interesting contrast to the Kadarka’s fruit-forward character.
- Liptauer Cheese Spread with Rye Bread: A spiced cheese spread made with sheep’s milk cheese (like Bryndza or a similar cheese), paprika, caraway seeds, and sometimes other additions like onions or pickles, popular in the Pannonian region, will pair well with the wine’s subtle spice notes.
Dessert:
- Plum Cake with Crumble Topping: A classic Central European dessert featuring juicy plums baked into a simple cake with a buttery crumble topping will complement the Kadarka’s red fruit notes without being overly sweet.
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