Maurer – Orion 2022
Mezes Feher
Serbia, Fruška Gora
The Mezes Feher grape, once a Central European favorite, was nearly wiped out by the Phylloxera plague in the late 19th century – an epidemic caused by the grapevine pest, a small sap-sucking insect, inadvertently introduced to Europe from North America, where native grapevines had resistance to it.
Oszkár Maurer is the hero behind its resurrection, playing a crucial role in bringing this nearly forgotten varietal back to life.
Today, he remains one of the few winemakers crafting wine from this rare grape.
Despite its tendency to ripen early, Maurer hand-picks these grapes in late October, allowing noble rot to affect part of the harvest. The grapes then undergo fourteen days of skin contact before aging in old oak barrels, sealed with beeswax and left untouched for over a year under a flor*.
The wine displays a deep orange hue with golden undertones, exuding a mysterious, smoky character. On the nose, aromas of apricot, dried fruits, and a touch of yuzu leap out, while layers of floral notes, hay, and acacia honey unfurl with time in the glass.
On the palate, there’s a captivating interplay of pine resin, salted caramel, and candied orange zest, forming an irresistible flavor marriage.
Bright, lively acidity and silky tannins provide the perfect framework for this extraordinary wine.
* Flor is a veil of yeast that develops on the surface of wine during barrel aging, a process most famously used in the production of Sherry, and of course in Jura where they call it sous voile (French for “under a veil”).
Flor protects the wine from excessive oxidation while imparting distinctive nutty, yeasty notes, with a subtle savory edge. This nuance beautifully complements the fruity and floral characteristics, adding an extra layer of intrigue to an already extraordinary wine.
FOOD PAIRING
Starters:
- Smoked Trout with Dill & Horseradish Cream: The smokiness of the trout will complement the wine’s smoky character, while the dill and horseradish will cut through the richness.
- Sarma (Stuffed Cabbage Rolls): The savory flavors of the filling (often ground meat and rice) will harmonize with the wine’s complexity, and the cabbage adds a subtle sweetness.
- Ajvar Dip with Grilled Bread: Ajvar, a roasted red pepper spread, offers a smoky sweetness that mirrors the wine’s profile. Serve with crusty bread for dipping.
Main Courses:
- Roasted Duck with Plum Sauce: The richness of the duck will complement the wine’s body, while the sweetness of the plum sauce will play off the honeyed notes.
- Goulash with Dumplings: The hearty flavors of the goulash, often featuring beef, paprika, and onions, will stand up to the wine’s boldness.
- Roasted Pork with Sauerkraut: The acidity of the sauerkraut will balance the wine’s richness, and the pork’s savory notes will complement the smoky character.
Cheeses:
- Aged Gouda: The nutty and slightly sweet flavors of aged Gouda will harmonize with the wine’s honeyed notes.
- Manouri: This Greek cheese, similar to ricotta but slightly tangier, will provide a refreshing contrast to the wine’s richness.
- Kashkaval: This Balkan cheese, often aged and slightly sharp, will provide a contrasting texture and flavor to the wine.
- Roquefort: The blue cheese’s pungent character will offer an interesting counterpoint to the wine’s sweetness and smokiness.
Desserts:
- Walnut Cake with Honey Glaze: The nutty flavors of the cake will complement the wine’s honeyed notes, while the glaze adds a touch of sweetness.
- Apple Strudel: The warm spices in the strudel will echo the wine’s spice notes, and the sweetness will balance the wine’s acidity.
- Plum Cake with Almond Topping: The sweetness of the plums will play off the honeyed notes in the wine, while the almond topping adds a touch of nuttiness.
Starters
- Warm Feta and Walnut Phyllo Triangles: Crispy phyllo filled with tangy feta, crushed walnuts, and a hint of nutmeg enhances the wine’s warm spice and nutty notes.
- Marinated Roasted Beet Salad with Orange and Rucola: Earthy beets, bright orange slices, and peppery arugula bring out the wine’s citrus and resinous elements.
- Stuffed Mushrooms with Herbed Breadcrumbs and Pecorino: The umami from the mushrooms and the nutty cheese pair beautifully with the wine’s smoky undertones.
Main Courses
- Pumpkin Gnocchi with Sage Brown Butter: The creamy, slightly sweet gnocchi mirrors the wine’s honey and caramel layers, while sage adds a touch of warmth.
- Cabbage Strudel with Dried Fruits and Spices: A flaky strudel filled with caramelized cabbage, apricots, and raisins evokes the wine’s dried fruit and spiced notes.
- Morel/Morchella Mushroom Risotto with Parmesan and Lemon Zest: Earthy mushrooms and bright lemon zest complement the wine’s complex interplay of flavors and its lively acidity.
Cheeses
- Comté: This Alpine cheese has nutty and slightly fruity notes, harmonizing with the wine’s caramel and apricot aromas.
- Liptauer Cheese Spread: A spiced cheese spread with paprika and caraway pairs well with the wine’s warm spice and creamy texture.
- Aged Brie with Truffle Oil Drizzle: The wine’s silky tannins balance the richness of brie, while truffle oil highlights its smoky character.
Desserts
- Poached Pears in Spiced Wine Sauce: Poached pears infused with cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves mirror the wine’s warm spice and fruity notes
- Spiced Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting: Warm spices like cinnamon and nutmeg in the cake pair seamlessly with the wine’s spiced aroma.
- Quince and Apple Tart with Almond Crust: The tart’s fruity and nutty flavors complement the wine’s apricot and caramel nuances.